Basic Husbandry for Ball Pythons
There's a plethora of information out there for the care of Ball Pythons. The unfortunate thing is that a vast majority is outdated or just plain incorrect. Here, we will try to provide the most current and successful guidelines for keeping these guys healthy and thriving for years to come. The information presented here comes from years of our own experiences as well as recommendations from some of the top Ball Python keepers in the US. We will be adding more detailed pages to our FAQ as often as we can, but in the mean time, please feel free to contact us with any questions you might have about anything you see here.
Enclosure Types
There are lots of different ways to house Ball Pythons and many can be successful if they are done correctly. The most common method for most new keepers is the traditional glass fish tank. With modifications and an understanding of Ball Python behavior, these can be a home for your new pet but without the necessary adjustments, they can also lead to a slow, miserable death. We will go over how to make a tank work throughout this page, but please remember that it is not one of the recommended enclosure types because they do not have any insulation to keep heat/humidity in and they do not provide any privacy for a very shy animal. One of the biggest things to remember for these guys is that they do not make good display animals. A hiding Ball is a happy Ball! Therefore, it is important to think about the well being of the animal alongside with what your goals are for adding a snake to your home. There are many other species that are better suited for a display cage.
Another popular method (and what we use for our own collection) is the use of tubs in racks. We have found that our collection has done best in this type of set up because it provides the most privacy along with consistent temperatures and humidity. Many people assume that racks are only for large collections and breeders, but this is false. Several companies have developed affordable single-level racks for those that want to provide the same set up, but only have one snake to house. We have used wood, melamine and PVC racks and have found that the PVC holds up the best while still maintaining temperatures/humidity. Our favorite companies are Animal Plastics and CSerpents, but there are many other fantastic builders out there to choose from. We just started working with Black Box Cages so we will update after we have used their equipment for awhile. Use of a tub and rack would be our #1 recommendation.
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Some people will use a stand-alone tub, like a rubbermaid under-bed storage tote. For a select situation, these can work but for most they are difficult to achieve proper and consistent temps since they provide no insulation but they are better than tanks for maintaining humidity. Stand-alone tubs are also somewhat difficult to secure. While your snake is a baby, they might be able to be housed in a small tub, but they quickly get stronger and are known escape artists. For this reason, we generally don't recommend this method of housing.
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Finally, there are PVC and melamine enclosures (like Animal Plastics T1 or Black Box's XT-3) that bring a balance between an aesthetically pleasing enclosure and proper environment for Ball Pythons. These are usually built with just a glass door on the front and the rest from PVC. They hold heat and humidity much better than a glass tank and provide more privacy. That being said, size of the enclosure still plays a huge role. The most commonly made sizes of this enclosure type would be much too large for this species, even as adults, so you'll need to be careful when ordering. These enclosures typically require a RHP (radiant heat panel) for a heat source and can be more expensive than a glass tank but are more comfortable for your animal and last a long time. These would be our #2 recommendation.
A Note About Behavior
Choosing an enclosure type is entirely up to you, but you'll need to know how to set up each type to best suit this species. These guys have a horrible reputation for being "picky eaters". This is 95% false. Correctly kept, Ball Pythons are garbage disposals and will eat everything you throw at them. You'll see that 5% we left out. There are some snakes that are just dead set on live vs frozen/thawed rodents and you have to remember to feed the snake in front of you, regardless of which method you prefer. We will go over feeding in more detail in another section.
A vast majority of the time, when a Ball Python refuses food, it is due to stress. This species is a reclusive snake that spends most of it's time hidden inside termite mounds in the wild. They seek out cramped, dark spaces that are humid and warm. So, if you put this animal in a glass tank with bright lights shining on it day in and day out, that's an immensely stressful situation for it to endure. Ball Pythons need to feel secure, hidden and safe.
These snakes are completely solitary animals, which means that they spend most of their lives alone and only come together with others of it's species to reproduce. It is never appropriate to house Ball Pythons together. Even when breeding these animals, they are never together for more than a few days. When multiple Ball Pythons are housed together, it causes them tremendous stress because they then have to compete with each other for every resource in the enclosure (heat, hides, water). A stressed animal quickly becomes a sick animal.
Temperatures
Maintaining consistent and accurate temperatures are vital for your animal. Your snake needs to be kept at proper temperatures for it's bodily functions, like digestion, to work normally. You can do this in one of two ways, ambient or gradient. Both methods work great for these guys as long as they are regulated correctly, so choose what works best for you and your animal.
Ambient heat
When the entire enclosure is kept at one temperature. For this method, you'll need 84-86 degrees Fahrenheit.
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Gradient heat
When one area of the enclosure is warmest and the other is cooler. For this method, you'll need your warm side to be 88-90 degrees and your cool side to be 78-80 degrees.
How you heat your enclosure entirely depends on the type of enclosure you decide to use. Racks use heat tape, PVC enclosures use Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHE's) or Radiant Heat Panels (RHP's), and tanks or tubs usually use an Under Tank Heater (UTH) with or without a CHE.
It is never advised to use light bulbs of any kind. Research has proven that Ball Pythons have no UV requirements so lights are just a source of stress for your animal. Being in the light means that the snake is exposed so in their mind, they are vulnerable to predators and need to get to a hiding spot quick!
Regardless of which heat source is used, you will need an accurate way to measure the actual temperatures your animal will be experiencing in the enclosure AND a regulator of some sort (a thermostat or a dimmer). Without these, your animal is at risk of hypothermia, burns or even neurological damage.
To measure the temps inside your enclosure, we recommend the use of digital gauges and a temp gun. AcuRite Digital Gauges are super affordable and will measure your humidity as well. We strongly advise against the use of dial gauges as they are highly inaccurate and the adhesive can be dangerous to your animal. To control your heat source, you'll need a thermostat.
To us, this is one of those things you just don't skimp on and you get what you pay for. Your thermostat provides life supporting heat and prevents life threatening over-heating or even fire. We use Vivarium Electronics VE-200, VE-300x2 and Spyder Robotics' Herpstat 2. For the safest and most accurate temps, we recommend a proportional thermostat vs a pulse thermostat. Pulse thermostats can cause the temps to fluctuate quite a bit, sometimes to dangerous levels while a Proportional thermostat will ensure constant
and consistent temps.
Humidity & Substrate
Humidity is a frequently overlooked aspect of Ball Python care that, when improperly maintained, can cause many of the health issues seen with this species. Consistent humidity of 55-65% is an absolute MUST for these guys. Low humidity can cause shedding issues, respiratory infections and cloacal prolapse so it is of utmost importance to measure and maintain a humid environment for your snake. As long as temperatures are correct, higher humidity (like if a water bowl spills or you just remoistened substrate) is perfectly fine and it will balance out in time.
Substrate plays a large role in maintaining humidity. Our favorite is coconut husk chunks since it holds humidity very well and is less likely to get caught in a snake's mouth when they're eating. Several brands are available such as Reptichip, Prococo or Reptile Prime and any of these are fine to use. Eco Earth is made of Coco Coir and while it's great for humidity, it can also get stuck in the snake's heat pits or get ingested when the snake is eating since it sticks to everything. For this reason, we prefer not to use Eco Earth for this species. Cypress mulch is also popular for keeping humidity up and we have had success with it as well, however it can be tricky or expensive to find a product that is 100% Cypress. Many products are a mixture of Cypress and other woods and should be avoided since Ball Pythons are very sensitive to the oils of certain woods like pine or cedar.
9 times out of 10, keepers are struggling to keep their humidity up. If you're one of the lucky ones that does not, you can also use aspen shavings, butcher paper or paper towels as substrate. We live in too dry of an area for aspen shavings, but when we did use it, we also found it to be incredibly dusty. Butcher paper and paper towels are nice since they're cheap but they're not very absorbent so when (not if) your snake knocks over the water bowl, they'll be sitting in a puddle until you are able to change everything out. Many snakes will push the paper or paper towels over to one side or just hide underneath them completely and then you're stuck scrubbing snake poo off your enclosure which is no fun. We do not recommend the use of reptile carpets. They cannot be properly sanitized and offer no benefit in regards to humidity.
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If you're using a glass tank, you're much more likely to run into issues with humidity. One thing you can do to combat this, alongside substrate, is to seal off most of your screen top. The easiest way to do this is with HVAC foil tape. You'll want to tape over about 85% to 100% of the lid. Always place your tape on the outside of the screen, NEVER on the inside. If you're using a CHE, tape over the entire screen except where your CHE sits. You can also use plexiglass to seal off your screen, but this can be more expensive. Towels are not effective at keeping humidity in.
The Details
We repeat: Ball Pythons are not good display animals. They want to hide. They want to feel secure. If your Ball Python is out and active in it's enclosure during the day, something is wrong!
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If you're using a rack and correct size tub, you often don't need to put anything besides substrate and a heavy water bowl. For the more shy animals, like new hatchlings, sometimes they need a hide inside their tub or to be moved to a small tub to feel secure enough to eat. We have also seen some people add fake plants and extra hides to their tubs and while there's nothing wrong with providing more cover, we have never found this necessary with our own animals.
For any other enclosure, you'll need multiple hides to place all over the enclosure so the snake doesn't have to choose between being warm or feeling safe. Hides should be just large enough for the snake to fit inside, nice and snug. Fake plants are also helpful for providing more clutter in the enclosure which will make your snake feel less exposed, but inspect for any loops of plastic as Ball Pythons often find themselves stuck and even injured in them. Branches and climbing areas are generally not recommended as these snakes are terrestrial and not built for climbing. Certainly, these guys are 100% capable of climbing but they are clumsy and heavy bodied. They are more likely to fall and break several ribs so we advise against climbing areas for these guys.
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Glass tanks will need at least 3 sides blacked out to provide more privacy for your animal. This is most easily done with black paper.
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A wide, low and heavy water bowl is recommended. Ball Pythons will try to knock over their water bowl so it's worth it to invest in a heavier bowl. Ideally, you'll want one large enough for your snake to submerge it's body in should it choose to do so. If you're trying to bump up your humidity, you can place your water bowl on the warm side but you'll also need to refill it more often as it evaporates.
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**Side note: your snake should not be spending extended amounts of time in it's water bowl. This is often a sign of snake mites which we will be making a page about in the future. Until then, feel free to contact us and we are happy to walk you through safe methods of eradicating snake mites.
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When it comes to picking the size of your enclosure, this really depends on the snake you want to put in it. However, Ball Pythons do best in smaller enclosures. If you're using a tank, we recommend a 10 gal for hatchlings, 20 gal for sub adults and 40 gal for the largest, full grown females. When using racks or PVC enclosures, it can be different from snake to snake as some are more sensitive than others. Generally, we move our animals through 6, 15, 32 and 41qt tubs as they mature. Males top out in the 32qt and breeder females get the 41qt. Some animals have to be moved down a size if they feel too exposed in the larger tub. Many PVC cages are on the larger size, so they tend to be best used with adult Ball Pythons. They can be used with younger snakes if there are several hides and extra clutter but you have to be ready to put them in a smaller cage if they go off feed.
Escape Artists
Lastly, double and triple check that your enclosure is secured! Ball Pythons (and pretty much any snake species) are widely known for escaping their homes, especially at night when they are most active. Please take extra precaution and make sure your tubs fit correctly in your rack or that your lid is properly locked down on your tank. Lid locks are easily found on Amazon or at Petco/Petsmart/etc and are preferred over the old method of putting heavy things on top of your lid.
Still Have Questions?
We will be adding more information to our FAQ as soon as we can. Topics include Feeding, Genetics, Snake Mites, Quarantine Protocols and more. If you have questions or suggestions, we would love to hear from you!
